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Bariloche - 28 mars au 1er avril 2010

The trip from Los Antiguos and Bariloche (or San Carlos de Bariloche) has been terrific throughout. We left March 28 to 15 and we arrived 29 to 18h ... It was supposed to arrive on the 29th at 8am-n which is not bad, but the bus broke down at night in the middle of the steppe ... It s is arrested hours, drivers under the bus, more suspensions. It must be said that the road-always the legendary Route 40, s to recall! - Was still a dirt road and gravel ... It has managed to restart the bus and traveling at the speed of a snail up the small town of Esquel. The one that waited another bus to pick us up to 300 km remaining. We waited for the bus in question from 8 am to 13h and we finally arrived in Bariloche was 18h. A beautiful day for a lot of annoyance and lost ....
We had the info too late but what we c should have done is go up this part of Chile because the scenery is much more beautiful. For between Los Antiguos and Esquel, Patagonia Argentina is truly boring, very dry because it rains very little compared to the Chilean Patagonia much nicer. There have been crossing the border to Los Antiguos rating and Chile Chico Chile, take the southern route and alternate route and ferry before returning to Argentina in terms of Esquel. From Esquel to the landscape changes and the steppe gives way to a new landscape of mountains and lakes. D Also, c is between Esquel and El Bolson that the singer Florent Pagny has his ranch somewhere well hidden to the village of Cholila ... N not being invited, we spent our way!

Bariloche al located inside the Nahuel Huapi National Park and the shores of the lake of the same name. The city has not particularly charming, only its central place, with small wooden buildings and stone can resemble a Swiss village. The rest is rather arbitrary, but the two main streets parallel to the lake are very commercial and rather pleasant. We are far from the charms of the Chilean housing. The decor around Bariloche is however very beautiful: Lake Nahuel Huapi and its islands the largest of which is the Victoria Island, the "arm of lakes", and several Cerros (vertices) which are accessed by cable car and / or chair lift. In particular, it is up to Cerro Catedral (1900 m only) on top of which the views of the lake Nahuel Huapi and Gutierrez and splendid that the peaks of the Andes with Tronador volcano (3478 m). Villa Catedral, or part of the cable car to climb to Cerro, is also the largest ski resort of South America. And it's weird to think that the ski season here s extends from mid May to late September. There are quite a few channels or you can hike from hut to hut was from Cerros.
we went to visit the peninsula of Llao Llao located in the heart of the Nahuel Huapi Park 25 km east of Bariloche al. A good network of bus serves. Unfortunately it has rained all day and paid it s is soaked from head to toe. We didn't have climbed Cerro Campanario either d or it is said that al is one of the finest views of the world ... It will take that one back, c is about to see all that we didn't have to see!




We will leave April 1 for the los Andes San Martin 200 km further north.

Waxing And Pain Killers

The Ancients - 25 au 27 mars

We started March 25 at 9am in the morning from El Chalten and arrived at Los Antiguos 22h, a village of 5,000 inhabitants situated on the shores of Lago Buenos Aires, just 10 km from the Chilean border; the lake being a horse on the two countries. Ruta 40 on this section is a gravel track which crosses the Patagonian steppe landscapes very arid, almost desert. It was crossed in 11 hours of travel, only a dozen vehicles ... By cons we still saw lots of guanacos (llama in the Andes), ñandus (the ostrich Andes), and we even saw a zorro (fox Andes, c is very rare to see them) as well as a small animal unknown to us until then: a pinch. Highway not in finished and is much longer that it is not tarmac ... Leaving El Chalten, the view over the Lago San Martin was superb, then a steppe landscape similar to the km. Arriving to Los Antiguos, terrain is shifting in favor of deep valleys and canyons. Since that we are in Patagonia We are amazed by the color of the sky. When it is blue, blue is very clear. The clouds are translucent and have something special forms: they look like flying saucers or springs ... and appear to float in the sky. Los Antiguos
is an oasis of greenery in the harsh landscape that surrounds the. The town is famous for its production of red berries in chakras, or family farms that can be visited. In particular, Los Antiguos is our Bessenay since c is the capital of the cherry with a national holiday is celebrated annually in January.
We spent a great day in the chakra of Señor Padilla, who was the owner of the hostel where we slept. 12 ha of land in the countryside on which he grows vegetables: garlic, beets, peas ... it also has fruit trees, sheep, horses and racing pigs. We arrived as tourists to visit the chakra, and we left as friends. Mr. Padilla was prepared in the kitchen of his small hut a great stew of mutton (which had to be skinned head down) with potatoes and carrots. Some friends came to join us with a bag full of chicken parts that they have kitchens improvising on a barbecue sauce with tomatoes, onions and sour cream ... Accompanies all of a good bottle of red wine. A regal, and a day unlike any other in a natural atmosphere and family. Señor Padilla explained to us the difference between ranch and chakra. The first is at least 1000 ha and includes the intensive rearing of sheep and / or cattle. The chakras are smaller and priority is given to the family culture.




One sign in particular has noted Argentines: their consumption permanently mate, a drink that they cut through the dried leaves in a kind of timbale specially called bombilla , with hot water and drink it with something resembling a pipette. So we see them all the time in stores, on the street ... including the bus driver, with their thermos of hot water in hand and bag of mate. In all, we have a good contact with the Argentines, they are friendly, perhaps less warm and endorsements that the Chileans, in any case less curious and more indifference to us.

We do that a short step to Los Antiguos and continue up the Ruta 40, tomorrow 27 March toward San Carlos de Bariloche.